Colin
I have to say that being in a lock with a cruiser using their typical bight method gives me the heebie jeebies. It always looks to be a complete snakes wedding of line, guardrail and hands.
I have to agree with you in many cases. Often very small cruisers (hire boats) seem to get into difficulties, usually because they can only get one line attached and that is at an impossible angle to control the boat, either by hand or by engine power.
My previous boat had its handrails starting from either side of its bow and stern bollards, thus allowing easier and safer ropework. All vessels, cruisers or barges, with continuous rails above the bollards present a potential danger to hands, but it’s certainly less serious than the danger of falling in and can be pointed out to inexperienced crew!
The big boat method of pushing ahead on a headrope seems so much safer. With just one rope it doesn't need touching once secured, it auto adjusts to the rise and fall of the lock and the helm can easily control the boat even in a vicious lock with judicious use of engine power and rudder.
When entering a lock behind some inconsiderate skipper who insists on keeping his engine in gear, I get somewhat ratty. It’s quite unnecessary and often causes as much turbulence as the lock sluices – but before I’m attached! For the benefit of other lock users, and to reduce noise and exhaust fumes, and to substantially reduce my engine hours, I normally turn off my engine in locks. This requires me to be confident that my lines are adequate to control the boat’s movements during the locking.
If I had a long, straight-sided barge, I’d probably use the method you describe if I had the lock to myself, but not with a curve-sided vessel where the stern wants to move away from the wall when pushing against a bow line.
Tam
I’m sure you have far more photos showing lines that have to be cut because the rope has jammed on the boat’s bollard or cleat than because one part of a loop has been trapped in the crack between 2 stone blocks. I’m always aware of the danger presented by cracks and make my visitors aware. Several times I’ve been in locks when other’s lines have had to be cut, but never yet because of a line being caught in a crack – always because of inattentive crew allowing a jam on the bollard. The double-line method reduces the danger of snagging at the boat end owing the much reduced effort required to hold the rope – fewer turns – I never allow even one full turn.
Lassoing a bollard with the rope eye requires most skill and is least successful to anyone but the expert. Throwing a loop by making two coils and tossing it over a bollard (taught at Bisham Abbey) is more successful, but difficult with handrails in the way. Offering a loop with a light boathook to the lockside bollard is both the easiest to learn and the most reliable way to achieve what’s required. I say this with 100% confidence, particularly if the forward crew is in the 50+ age range and likely to be female, as I suspect reflects a large proportion of DBA members’ situations, although I accept (and admire) those who've mastered the trick of lassoing with 95% accuracy.
I think that as long as one’s own chosen method works and is safe for your own boat and crew, then that’s all that’s needed. I hope that schools can teach a range of methods for students to consider before they experiment and choose the most suitable for use on their own boats.
Peter