Connecting a calorifier

[DBA Forum (B) - Nigel Seaman]

Hi Pete,

My advice is to install the whole system in copper tube (EN 1057 Type X) which is the same spec as found in B&Q etc for home use.
Use the same diameter as the connections to the calorifier and make any diameter reductions at the engine end of the installation.
Connect dissimilar metals with brass fittings to help avoid galvanic corrosion.
Insulate the whole installation.

Have you considered how are you going to control the temperature within the calorifier?

Kind regards,

[DBA Forum (B) - Jeremy May]

[quote="Nigel Seaman" post=58433]Hi Pete,

My advice is to install the whole system in copper tube (EN 1057 Type X) which is the same spec as found in B&Q etc for home use.
Use the same diameter as the connections to the calorifier and make any diameter reductions at the engine end of the installation.
Connect dissimilar metals with brass fittings to help avoid galvanic corrosion.
Insulate the whole installation.

Have you considered how are you going to control the temperature within the calorifier?

Kind regards,[/quote]

Is it not best to have some flexible hose somewhere to absorb vibration?

[DBA Forum (B) - Charles Timothy Golden]

Hi Pete,

When connecting a Calorifier for a winter project, not only is the type of Hose the question, but also what type and size and number of Calorifier(s) would be of interest to others, ranging from Colin's 2 x 146Ltrs , should it / they be twin coil,and if two would installing in series be better or in parallel. Also what are they connected with, to receive or store the heat. Engine and Genny would account of two sources, but also a Stove back-boiler and or Central Heating Boiler. If you have all 4 of the above potential heat sources what would be the best combination, or could you fit divert-er valves to send the the heating water to the coils as required.

In my current house, I have both a back boiler on my solid fuel fire and an oil fired boiler, with a thermostat on the Domestic Hot water Cylinder that diverts both sources to CH via a pump when activated by the Thermostat . I assume a similar system could be set up In a Barge which would get the best of both worlds.?

Regards Tim

[DBA Forum (B) - Colin Stone]

If the engine is connected to a heat exchanger in the CH circuit, then everything can be heated by engine.
My large calorifier has a single coil supplied by the CH circuit.
Small calorifier in engine room is twin coil, one for CH, other for generator cooling.
My CH system is simple - no 3 way valve and calorifers treated as another radiator. All rams have TRVs. Just an out leg from boiler and return leg.
I would store engine heated water in calorifiers as hot as possible - 90C - and cool on outlet if needed. Then HW should last a good couple of days.
Colin Stone
KEI
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[DBA Forum (B) - Pete. Milne]

CTG: I'm not theorising but evolving what I have to be more useful and thinking simply about hoses between the vibrating engine and the calorifier. My current need is simply for a tank to store hot water from the engine after a day's cruising.

Nigel: Rigid copper will certainly not do between a vibrating engine and rigid calorifier. Lorry radiator hose is probably the answer. It has to be super-robust as it's in a critical part of the engine (without which we are nothing!).

The bigger picture is that our Kabola heats water and CH. It uses a little electricity for the water, which is fine when the solar panels are working hard (and we're often moored for a few days/weeks) but less good in October when we're scuttling homewards. The Kabola does CH when on shore power but uses too much power to run on battery. We don't need CH when the engine is running and we're jumping in and out to work locks, just a little warmth in the evenings afterwards at this time of year. We plan to install an extra heating stove in the saloon to warm the boat at the start & end of year without shore power. This might have a back-boiler for water heating on the days we don't travel and get heat from the engine but having gas on board, it's often simpler & cheaper to put on a kettle.


Colin: Yes, store as hot as possible (and cool with a thermostatic valve - or warn guests!).

Pete

[DBA Forum (B) - Nigel Seaman]

No rigid connections to the engine - agreed.
Apologies for omitting this from my earlier post.